Enzo的奇幻旅程

請回想，十五歲的你在做什麼？

十一歲的悟飯已經打敗塞魯，拯救了地球

十一歲的小傑走上萬里尋父的旅途（雖然跑去殺螞蟻）

十四歲的風見拿下閃電霹靂車冠軍

而來自法國的Enzo Oddo在十五歲那年完成攀岩生涯中第一條9a+路線

原文轉錄自Petzl官網

（http://ppt.cc/Lmf2）

Enzo is the youngest member of our team of climbers. The fifteen-year-old from Nice has already sent several 9a+ routes. This summer, on the 15th of August, he achieved his greatest success with the mythical "Biographie 9+" at Ceuse.

 Enzo是Petzl攀岩團隊中最年輕的一員。這個來自尼斯的十五歲年輕小伙子已經完成數幾條難度9a+的路線。今年八月十五日，他在完成位於瑟斯的「9+自傳」路線後，達到攀岩生涯的頂峰。

We had the opportunity to meet with Enzo and ask him a few questions about his tick of the summer.

 我們有機會與Enzo面談並且問幾個有關於這個耗費他整個夏日的難纏計畫。

Petzl : What prompted you to try this route?
請問是什麼鼓舞你試著完成這條路線？

Enzo : It's one of the rare routes at this grade in France, and of course I'd seen Chris Sharma's video. I wanted to see if I could do it; it's really my style. I made a first attempt on the route in November 2009, but I really didn't have enough reach for the big move... I ate soup all winter and went back, starting on the first weekends in June. A few precious centimeters allowed me to finally get the move. I started working it at the beginning of summer, with a break in mid-July because of my shredded fingers!!! At the end of July, the key hold on the start broke, but I didn't let it get to me. I rested a bit again and went back 5 days later. Actually, I figured out the new boulder move for the start pretty fast. It felt like it would work! And in the end it didn't change the difficulty of the route much.

像這樣困難的路線在法國屈指可數，我當然看過Chris Sharma的紀錄片。我想看看我是否也能做到，這跟我的風格如出一轍。我在2009年11月首次嘗試攀爬這條路線，但在動作較大的部份，我連邊都搆不到。於是我整個冬天都不斷喝湯（補充營養），並在今年六月第一個週末回到這裡。我終於客服那宛如咫尺天涯的幾公分差距並做出特定動作。我自夏初便將心力投注其上，雖然七月中因為手指受傷而休養一陣子。七月底時，路線開頭部分一個重要手點崩落，但我沒因此受傷。稍事休息五天後我又再度上陣。事實上，我很快便找到了新的抱石動作彌補崩落的起攀部分，而事後也證明這條路線的難度並不受影響。

I immediately started working "Biographie" again by alternating with days on other routes and at other crags (Entraygues). It's important for motivation, so you don't get saturated. And voila! On the 15th of August it got done!!! Physically I still had something left, mentally I was focused and relaxed, and voila! I got it.

我即刻再度著手「Biographie」這條路線，期間也搭配攀爬其他岩壁（Entraygues）上的路線。保持向上的動力，如此才不會覺得厭煩。一切努力就在八月十五當天水到渠成。也許在體能方面我沒有耗盡全力，但在精神方面我用最輕鬆的態度展現高度的專注，我就是這樣完成這條路線的。

Petzl : How many attempts did it take?
Enzo : I must have put in at least forty. I sent the first part at least 25 times.

（問）：你總過嘗試過幾次？

（答）：至少有四十來次。光開頭部分就試超過25次了。

Petzl : What were you feeling when you clipped that anchor?
Enzo : It was a real feeling of happiness and also true freedom since this is the route I've worked the most, it's my first 9a+. It really demanded a lot of work and motivation. When you work a route for a long time, it generates a lot of stress, and getting it releases all that pressure!!!

（問）：完攀時你有什麼感受？

（答）：滿心歡喜以及無邊的自在。這是我付出最多心力的路線，同時也是我第一條9a+路線，這的確耗費不少心血。當你長時間處理同一條路線時，沈重壓力也隨之而來，而完成這條路線就是消解這些壓力的最佳良方。

Petzl : Did you do any specific training?
Enzo : Not really, but working and sending "Victima Perez" at Margalef really helped me. It's the same style: super endurance with no big rest.

（問）：你有進行特定訓練嘛？

（答）：說不上是訓練。在Margalef的「Victima Perez」」（路線）有相同的攀登風格：超凡的耐力且沒有可供休息的大點，完成這路線確實讓我獲益良多。

Petzl :  The day you sent it, were there a lot of people there to encourage you?
Enzo : It's true that there were about 30 people on the ground, but it was cool; it didn't bother me. When I make an attempt, I isolate myself. I get into my bubble, and I ignore everything except the next move. I have to concentrate to the max.

（問）：你完攀該路線的當天是否有許多觀眾在場替你打氣？

（答）：事實上大約有三十人在現場，但現場的氣氛還算平穩。當我專注嘗試完成某條路線時，在場的人員並不會影響我，因為我幾乎將自己與外界隔離。我進入了我的小小世界並且只專注在下一步動作上，我必須要全神貫注在攀爬。

Petzl : So, you're number what to have done Biographie?
Enzo : I must be the seventh person (after Chris, Sylvain, Patxi, Dave, Ethan and Ramon).

（問）：所以你是屈指可數完成「自傳」這條路線的人。

（答）：我應該是史上第七人。

Petzl :  Ceuse ?
Enzo : It's really a huge crag, with so many beautiful routes, and they should all be done. It's also one of the advantages of Biographie that you can also do other routes next to it to relax and stay motivated!

（問）：你對瑟斯的評價呢？

（答）：有著許多絕妙路線的巨大岩壁，每條路線都值得一試。「自傳」的好處之一是你可以藉由附近其他路線來紓壓及保持衝勁。

Petzl : What projects do you have now?
Enzo : I'm planning to have a pretty intense year of climbing. I'm super psyched to try Papi Chullo 9a+ at Oliana, and there are lots of new routes to do at Margalef this winter. This fall I'm looking for a window to go to Frankenjura. I've got to get on Action Directe 9a and Shangri La 8c+.
I'm continuing my schooling by correspondence with the CNED. I'm starting my second year! But I'm really going to increase my climbing this year. I'm also planning a good month at Bleau to do a ton of bouldering. That's also part of my climbing. With bouldering, I know I'll have problems with my reach and that I'll have to forget about some moves, but that's ok. Also, tomorrow I'm going back up to Grand Sablat for a few days. It's a crazy site, and it's cool up there with the altitude. The view over the Meije is amazing. I'll also be part of the Petzl Roc Trip in Mexico!!

（問）：接下來有其他計畫嗎？

（答）：我正規劃有著忙於攀岩的一年。個人非常嚮往嘗試在Oloana的「PApi Chullo」（9a+），而Margalef在這個冬天也開發了許多新路線。我希望能在這秋天有機會能造訪Frankenjura，並著手攀登「Action Directe」（9a）以及[Shangri La]（8c+）。我也藉由遠距教學來進行我在CNED第二年的課程。但今年我真的想增加攀岩量。我也想在楓丹白露好好花上一整個月的時間磨練抱石技巧，抱石也是我攀登的要項之一。藉由抱石，我發現我在延展（reach）方面的問題，並且修正掉幾個姿勢。而我明天就要返回Grand Sablat停留幾天，那實在是個瘋狂的攀岩妙處，在高海拔觸還能俯望整個Meije。當然，我也會參加Petzl在墨西哥的「Roc Trip」攀岩計畫。

Petzl : Do you put up routes?
Enzo : It's something I'm really interested in, but I don't have any experience yet. I dream of finding new crags with nice lines. I'm not that motivated to put up connections on crags that are already full.

（問）：你會尋找新路線嗎？

（答）：我真的很有興趣，但在這方面我完全沒有經驗。我企圖著在開發新的岩壁以及路線，我對已經佈滿路線的岩壁實在不知如何著手。

Petzl :  How important are grades for you?
Enzo : I find the grades quite good overall. What's most important is the real difficulty of the moves, the effort I'll need to send it. I know that Shangri La is going to be very difficult for me, and that's what motivates me to go.

（問）：你覺得難度對你的意義？

（答）：不錯。重點在於關鍵動作的難度，以及完成它所需耗費的努力。我知道Shangri La對我來說會很困難，而這就是驅使我去嘗試的誘因。

Petzl : Your future in climbing?
Enzo : I want to do it as much as possible and maybe make a living from it for a while. I still haven't decided on my future career.

（問）：你對攀岩的期許？

（答）：爬越多越好，也許成為職業攀岩者也不一定。我還沒有決定未來的方向。

Petzl :  Which climbers do you admire the most?
Enzo : Alex Huber, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods and Ty Landman (I've just seen his "Between the trees" video. It's incredible, he conquered the forest in a month; only "The Island" held him off.

（問）：你最欣賞哪位攀岩者？

（答）：Alex Huber, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods以及Ty Landman （我剛看完他的「Between the trees」影片）。那影片真是太棒了，雖然「The Island」讓他花費較多時間，他還是在一個月內完成那片樹林裡的路線。

Petzl : Competitions?
Enzo : I do them a bit from time to time. Next year I'm planning to enter a few "Open" comps to see what happens!

（問）：會想參加比賽嗎？

（答）：我一直都有在嘗試，明年我會參加幾項公開賽來試試身手。

Petzl : Besides climbing?
Enzo : I hang out with my friends, I read a lot, and I spend time on the computer! I mostly listen to music, lots of rock, but also everything else (except for French pop!). Now : "Nothing else matters" Metallica, "Next Episode" Dr. Dre et "How we do" de Mount Sims.

（問）：除了攀岩之外，你還做些什麼？

（答）：跟我的朋友在一起，閱讀、玩電腦。我很喜歡聽音樂，尤其是搖滾樂，基本上除了法式流行樂以外，我什麼都聽。現在最喜歡的是Metallica的「Nothing else matters」、Dr. Dre的「Next Episode」跟Mount Sims的「How we do」。