Annapurna (Book review)

"Annapurna, to which we had gone empty-handed, was a treasure on which we should live the rest of our days. With this realization we turn the page: a new life begins."

The first time I hear about Annapurna is in Ed Viesturs' talk on Kepller Speakers. As one of the American mountaineering legends, Viesturs shares he's career, motivation, and expeditions, as a legendary figure in climbing the 14 eight-thousanders. Viesturs mentions Annapurna (8091m) was the last jewel on his climbing belt, while it's also the mountain that inspired him of starting a climbing career since he was a kid. 

It's always interesting to see how the pioneers were enlightened, encouraged, and then decided to persist on what they choose. On a random occasion, I saw the book, Annapurna, written by Maurice Herzog, and I bought it, wishing someday it's my turn to say: "This is the book that brings me to the mountains."

Cover feature: the Great Barrier

Annapurna (8091m) is translated from Nepal Sanskrit, अन्नपूर्णा, which means 'Goddess of the Harvests.' The name actually implies a harvest to mountaineering expedition history because it's the first eight-thousander ever reached by human being. In 1950, when China was just relieved of its civil war, and the world was still in the aftershock of WWII, a group of French mountaineers cast their vision to the mysterious Himalayan Massif.

According to Herzog's log, Annapurna was not on their itinerary in the beginning. Daughlagiri (8167m) was theie preliminary target, while the reconnoitre report suggested it 'impossible' to find a practicable route to the summit of Dhaulagiri. A futile retreat was totally inacceptable for these ambitious climbers at that time, and, reasonably, they started to look for other possible alternatives. Annapurna was the substitute chosen by Herzog's team, while it didn't mean Annapurna was an easier target at all.

Before starting the expedition, they had to find out where Annapurna was. Yes, where was Annapurna? At 1950s, there were no GPS or Google map, even the map they used by the time had some blank areas waiting preciser measurement and exploration. It's not easy to transport all the logistics to the BC of Annapurna because there were too much unknown landscapes and accidents awaited them. The Great Barrier, a ridge series over 7000m barring them from Annapurna, came to their face even before the real challenge began. I am deeply attracted to this picture: two men standing at the bottom of the spurs, threatened by the imminent avalanche, observes the landscape through the small binoculars. They were enshrouded by the ominous snow, menaced by the up-coming monsoon, plagued by the worries of failing the expedition, while they carried on, kept pushing forward to he blank spot of man's knowledge and psyche.

I have to say this is a weird book because, although it's titled Annapurna, about one-third of the book is talking about how they were frustrated from the Dhaulagiri goal, the last one-third on their retreat and meeting the Nepal King. Only one-third of the book focuses on the process of summiting Annapurna.

I wonder whether the merriment of summiting Annapurna did last more than 5 minutes because the books says only "We are on top of Annapurna! 8,075 meters, 26,493 feet" and the log is followed by retreat full of avalanche, frostbites, amputation, and death. My theory is if anyone wants to take something away from the Himalaya, he has to leave of pay something there as the price, a kind of trade-off. After being diagnosed necessary amputation, the idea of stopping climbing came to Herzog, and he said:

"Yes, Chamonix perhaps, but I'll never be able to climb again. [...] I'll never do the Eiger now, Lionel, and I wanted to do so much. [...] The mountain meant everything to me - I spent the best days of my life among them - I don't want to do spectacular climbs, or famous ones, but I want to be able to enjoy myself in the mountains, even if it's only on the standard routes."

Ed Viesturs did the French route

At the critical moment of life and death, a true mountaineer demonstrates his immaculate passion for the peaks and strong determination to carry on his job, his beloved career as a climber. After the surgery, Herzog was in a critical situation, and he describes the scene as following:

"Then abruptly I had a vision of the life of men. Those who are leaving it for ever are never alone. Resting against the mountain, which was watching over me, I discover horizons I had never seen There at my feet, on those vast plains, millions of beings were following a destiny they had not chosen."

It sounds like Herzog had illusions at the moment, while it also reveals how climbing is transformed into a philosophical aspect when the climber's self is integrated with the colossal being of everything. I finally understand why Viesturs recommend this book at the endding of his talk. The essence of climbing/expedition should surpass the vain 'fist ascent' title. The adventurous spirit and unprecendented imagination to the snow-covered mountains are the reasons make the people pioneers. The last sentence of Annapurna is extremely touching, and I would like to share it with everyone whenever depression or frustration prevails:

"There are other Annapurnas in the lives of men."